Hutong

A hutong is a lane between rows of traditional courtyard houses, the basic fabric of old Beijing; the word is often said to come from Mongolian, and many lanes date back to the Yuan dynasty, when the city was laid out as the capital Dadu. Most run east–west, so that the houses along them can face south toward the sun. Hutong names record their history: some recall markets, crafts or officials once based there, and a few are barely wider than a person’s shoulders. Much of the old maze has been replaced by the modern city, but protected areas around Shichahai, Nanluoguxiang and the Drum Tower still hold lanes where neighbours chat, cook and play chess outside their gates. Explore on foot, by bike or by pedicab, and remember that these are homes: keep your voice down and ask before photographing people.